Lesbian & LGBTQ Travel in Japan

lesbian travel in Japan, lgbtq, pride

Lesbian Travel in Japan

Tokyo is an amazingly diverse city and you won’t have a problem finding the LGBTQ neighbourhood just a ten minute walk from Shinjuku Station.  Ni-chome/2-chome (“knee-ko-may”) is everything you love about the Japanese bar scene – intimate little bars with great people –  with the added benefit of not having to closet yourself while you enjoy a drink.  As with most gay neighbourhoods, many establishments are geared towards men, but there is so much happening in Tokyo, you can find quite a few lesbian places as well.

While there are numerous LGBTQ-friendly bars, you won’t be able to find them all.  And not all are foreigner-friendly.  My suggestion would be to start at a more well-known location, like Bar Goldfinger, and make some friends.  We were told about a couple of lesbian bars in the Ikebukuro neighbourhood where we were staying and ridiculously thought we would be able to find them ourselves.  Knowing the name of a place doesn’t help you much in Japan – get the address if you can!  Better yet, cancel your plans for the next evening and take your new friends out for drinks!

One of the great things about Japan is how friendly the people are.  Laura and I are definitely introverts. Still, we managed to make friends even as we hid in a dark corner of a bar quietly sipping our drinks.  The biggest difficulty you will face in meeting people will be the language barrier.

Outside of Tokyo, the gay and lesbian scene dies off.  When I booked our accommodations, I specifically referred to Laura as my wife and had no issues.  Private matters are respected as such in Japan, so it’s unlikely you will receive any comments or questions as to who your travelling partner is.

In Osaka, we met a young woman from Taiwan who recognised us from a restaurant in Kyoto (if you’re vegan or gluten-free, apparently you’re bound to run into the same people).  We chatted about the usual tourist stuff and she gifted us with some stationary from Taiwan.  Wanting to return the favour, I gave her the rainbow maple leaf pin from my jacket.  She looked at the pin somewhat confused and asked us, “Does rainbow mean lesbian?”  As I was emotionally preparing myself for our friendly repertoire to come to an end, she smiled as she held up the pin and said, “I support!”


lesbian travel in Japan, lgbtq, pride
Photo Credit: Lauren Anderson


LGBTQ History in Japan

Way, way back in the day (1200s – 1600s), there was a thing called shudo or nanshoku. This was a practice of homosexuality within the samurai tradition.  It was mostly pedophilic, with young apprentices being sexually obligated to their senior samurai masters, but also included adult-to-adult homosexual relations. For some reason, it was believed that male-female intercourse would weaken the samurai, but they seemed to be ok with this other method.  While these adult-youth, same-sex partnerships were encouraged, it seemed to be less to do with accepting homosexuality and more to do with misogyny.  I’m no historian, but I don’t think there’s anyway to paint this picture pretty…

There also appear to be references in art and literature that similarly refer to lesbian relationships. With the arrival of Christianity in the 1800s, sodomy was made illegal, but this law was revoked again during the same century seven years later.


Modern LGBTQ Laws in Japan


lesbian travel in Japan, lgbtq, pride
Photo Credit: H.L.I.T.


Homosexuality is legal in Japan, but specific laws and support vary. Some governments, such as in Tokyo, aim to protect from discrimination when applying for jobs, but this protection is not widespread and some same-sex couples go without protections, such as from domestic violence, that are granted to heterosexual couples. Same-sex marriages are not legally recognised in Japan, though in 2009 the government allowed for same-sex marriages to overseas partners.

While political support has been very much on the quiet side of things, there have been political figures who have publicly announced their sexuality. In 2003, Aya Kamikawa, an elected official in Tokyo, came out as transgender.  As well, in 2005, Kanako Otsuji, an assemblywoman from Osaka, came out as a lesbian.

Rei-Guimi Studio Tokyo was founded in 1987 as the first lesbian and feminist group. The objective of this group was to reclaim the lesbian identity from pornographic culture. In 1990, the Japanese Association for Lesbian and Gay Movement challenged and won the right for LGBT youth to use the Metropolitan House for Youth.


LGBTQ Culture in Japan


lesbian travel in Japan, lgbtq, pride


Despite the lack of political support, the people of Japan have generally shown a tolerance to, and continue to support, same-sex rights. Japan’s first pride parade happened in 2003 and Tokyo Disneyland added their support by hosting an LGBTQ day the same year.

Yuri, which means Lily, is a form of manga that depicts lesbian relationships. There is some argument as to the intended audience, but there are some publications such as Revolutionary Girl Uten, which are aimed primarily towards the lesbian audience.

You won’t see same-sex couples holding hands while walking down the street, but you won’t see any couples doing this.  PDA’s are generally frowned upon and the closest you will come to seeing a couple being intimate in public is two people staring longingly into each other’s eyes.  So at least you can take comfort knowing your affections are as closeted as everyone else’s.

Lesbian Bars & Cafés in Tokyo


lesbian travel in Japan, lgbtq, pride, Bar Goldfinger

Bar Goldfinger is the most famous place for lesbians and LGBTQ people to gather (even Ellen Page has been here).  Once a month, they also hold an all-night, women-only party at a nearby club.  With a slogan like short nails club, this is a great place to hang-out (or make-out;)).  Women-only except on Friday.

Dorobune   Another popular and comfortable lesbian bar in ni-chome with women-only nights on Saturdays.  Bring your dog!

Motel #203  Women-only lounge except on Thursdays.  The owner, Chiga, also runs Bar Goldfinger.

Adezakura  One of the newer, and more popular, bars on the lesbian scene, Adezakura takes music requests and is women-only until 2am.

Las Chicas  An arty, restaurant and bar with DJs.  Activist lesbian gatherings happen here.

Bar GOSSIP  Also a café and bookstore, LGBT events are sometimes hosted here.  From their website, “’gossip’ is open for anyone. Nationality, sexuality, age, does not matter, needless to say!”.

Rainbow Burritos  A lesbian bar that serves burritos! (not gluten-free, but they do also have nachos.).

Arty Farty  A popular gay club with a mixed crowd.  Women need to be accompaninied by a gay friends on Fridays and Sundays.

Campy! Bar  Everybody is welcome at this aptly-named drag bar!

CoCoLo Café  If you need break from the bar scene, but still want to be in a gay-friendly place, this café may be the place for you.

News Café   An LGBT owned café in the Jiugaoka neighbourhood.

Hug  Women-only bar catering mostly to a slightly older crowds (30s-40s).



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16 Replies to “Lesbian & LGBTQ Travel in Japan”

  1. Very interesting post Jennifer, I like that you got into the history of LGBTQ culture in ancient Japan. Well done!

  2. I had no idea how the Japanese culture saw LGBTQ culture. I always love to learn. Great post.

  3. Hey, i appreciate the way you have covered this topic. It is important we talk about this stuff.

    Regards/ Himanshu

  4. I’m a supporter as I have two gay siblings. That’s great you had good experiences in Japan. It is a country I would love to visit. Thanks for including a bit about history and social customs too.

  5. Glad to see that I don’t have to be all mushy with Darcee in Tokyo…it’s their private culture. Haha. Great post. Loved the research you did on the history of the Samurai and homosexuality, I had no idea but I guess it would make sense. Glad it’s an open minded culture

    1. The only people we saw engaging in PDAs were tourists. After being immersed in Japanese culture even for a little while, even we thought it was a bit much to witness (but usually I love PDAs:)

  6. Wow, I never thought about how the scene changed from the US to Asia, pretty drastic differences. I loved your subtle passing of the button to the gal you were with, this was not your first rodeo. LOL Very interesting about addresses not being published.

    1. Most businesses are so small, they don’t have an online presence. If they did, it would probably be in Japanese anyway…

  7. Very cool. I had no idea what the thoughts were in Japan about LGBTQ. I know I shouldn’t but I sometimes forget that it could be an issue unfortunately.

    1. I always like to research what is happening currently and the history in each country Laura and I visit together. We tend to closet ourselves when we travel, but we are learning more and more that people are a lot more tolerant and supportive than their respective governments.

  8. It’s great you were met with such acceptance in Japan! I think it’s best to be modest in your interactions as a couple, wherever you are, and whatever your sexual orientation.

  9. A friend of mine who identifies as queer recently spent some time in Japan for work and mentioned they felt very relaxed the whole time. It’s so good to hear more about how the LGBTQ community are treated with such acceptance in Tokyo!

  10. Very cool that you studied all the lgbtq subject before traveling to Japan, with some curious chapters to tell us here. And great that you and Laura felt comfortable traveling around, at least in Tokyo.

  11. Such a great guide! I’ll be sharing it with a few friends. Thanks for taking us through the history too, it’s so important.

  12. Japan is one of the best country is the world. I will go there 2 years ago I just find your article just few time ago I am so happy to read your post. I am also agree with some people there tour guide is very helpful for traveler. There behave is so nice. I am very interested to go there again.

  13. Here’s the thing about Japanese media – something like Utena isn’t just “for a lesbian audience” it’s for a general audience. Anime fans aren’t going to not watch something just because it has same-sex pairings in it. There are tons of straight or bi people who watch shows with same-sex pairings of the opposite sex because they’re hot, and there are tons of gay or bi people who watch shows with same-sex pairings of their sex because they’re hot, and there are tons of people who watch shows with same-sex pairings, opposite-sex pairings, or *gasp* single people, just because they’re people. (pansexual, agender, single here). That’s something Westerners don’t get. No matter what your race or gender or whatever is, it shouldn’t be a barrier to enjoying entertainment. Not all Japanese people are better than that, but at least a lot of anime fans are.

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